Lee Markham and Peter Stuckwisch
I am not at all secretive of that fact that I sometimes cheat on my favourite varietal Riesling. Like all chronic cheaters I have a whole series of mistresses I can contact: sometimes Chardonnay, sometimes Silvaner and sometimes even Sauvignon Blanc. My favourite mistress though is an Austrian specialty: Grüner Veltliner.
I particularly like Grüner Veltliner because of its fresh and robust character without a profound reliance on acidity: it rewards with refreshing drinking and none of the stomach-acid issues in the night. It also ages excellently losing its bright fruit and robust spice structure for absolute elegance: perhaps only Riesling and Chardonnay age better when it comes to white wine and yet Grüner Veltliner hardly ever shares the same attention. Not only is it a fabulous varietal on its own, just like Riesling and Chardonnay, it differs just as much according to where it grows: even the same river banks produce vastly different wines a few kilometres further downstream: Kremstal, Wachau and Kamptal might all be best known for their cultivation of Riesling and yet the Grüner Veltliner that emerges from the same vineyards is just as worthy of recognition.
Thankfully I share this opinion of Grüner Veltliner with Peter Stuckwisch: a good friend and fellow Austrian wine lover. A few weekends ago, he arranged a blind tasting of several young wines: different regions, different producers and different styles from classic, young, clean-cut Veltliner right up to Botrytis bombs and natural wines from some of Austria’s youngest winemaking talents. His tasting notes can be found here (German Language). Mine can be found below.
Getting hold of these wines where you live
Many of these wines are widely available in Germany and Austria. A handful are also available in the UK and USA. If you are interested in purchasing any of the above-listed wines and are having trouble locating them where you live, please get in touch and I will gladly assist you in getting hold of a bottle or two.